Butterick 5317 (Maggie London)

Sew, on to the Easter dress for my 15yo DD. She is old enough to be trusted to pick her own fabric and run with it! She chose a beautiful paisley print charmeuse from Fabric.com. Once we got it, (they ship pretty fast), we were off to JoAnn's to find a coordinating fabric for the bodice and contrast band at the bottom of the dress. We were able to find a lovely lime green crepe back satin that looked nice with the charmeuse and a basic white lining.

I went ahead and bought extra lining to line the skirt. The pattern doesn't call for it, but the charmeuse is rather see through and I didn't want to have her worry about needing a slip. I also bought extra of both fabrics because I wanted to add sleeves to the pattern. My daughter is very modesty conscious and since the dress would be worn to church dances....

Anyway, we only had to do a muslin of the bodice and then I pinned the skirt pattern on to check for length. We ended up raising the front bodice quite a bit, it was way too low for a 15yo. Also had to fix some gaposis and take in the shoulders. The other alteration was to take 1/2" out of the center back. Originally, we took a full inch, but wanted her to have more movement. To translate that alteration into the skirt, I simply deepened the center pleat by 1/2" on each side.


(I really need to get better at taking these pictures! The dress looks to big, but really it isn't.)

I was able to add short sleeves without a problem. I found the sleeves I wanted on a Simplicity pattern in my stash and traced off the same size (14) and walking the pattern, it was a perfect fit! Only the notches didn't match up, but that is such and easy fix!



This dress was really easy to put together and sooooo cute! It even has pockets! The only change I made during construction was to decide to use an invisible zipper instead of a regular. I should have made the decision before construction as it would have been easier, but.... Can I just say I am grateful for double sided, water soluble sticky tape? It made getting the zipper in with everything lined up so much easier!



In conclusion, I would recommend this pattern! It can be dressy or casual and goes together really fast! My daughter just loves it and can't wait for Easter!


(Hands in pockets!)

A Tale of Two Dresses

So, with Easter coming up quick and my cruise coming up the week before, I thought that I had better get my girls dresses done before the cruise. I am hoping that I will have enough time before the cruise to do some sewing for me and maybe time before Easter when I get back to make an Easter dress for me!

Now that I have taken the Moulage class from Kenneth King, (thanks patternreview.com for setting that up!) I have a lot more desire to sew for myself. I have been working on the slopers from different pattern companies to help make self fitting go faster, but that is another post for another time....

Meanwhile, back in the sewing room....

For my 10yo, I decided to pull a pattern out of my stash, Larken from Maja's Heirlooms. She wanted a dress that could be worn with a jacket and I thought that this dress, with Blair, also from Maja's Heirlooms, would fit the bill nicely. So, I ran to JoAnn's, the only fabric store close to me, and picked some coordinating quilting cottons. That would become mistake number 1. Normally, I would choose batiste or lawn for something like this, but since I knew that I wouldn't have time to hand smock the dress and it wouldn't work with machine smocking, I didn't worry about the fabric being thin enough to go through the pleater.

So, a quick description of Larken from Majasheirlooms.com - "Larkin is a slight A-line dress with a bishop style neck on the front and sleeves. Short sleeves are finished with elastic and long sleeves are smocked at the wrist leaving a ruffle. The dress closes in the back with buttons."



I chose the short sleeve option, finishing the neckline and sleeves with elastic, and according to measurements, size 10.

I must note that the quality of paper that the pattern is printed on is nice and the instructions come in booklet form. That said, I traced out the pattern and cut it out on my pre-washed fabric. The dress went together very nicely and quickly. But, it must be noted that the instructions are sadly lacking. Fortunately, I have been sewing enough that I do not need the instructions, but I do tend to read them, usually not until I have finished the patter, just so that I can rate them. This pattern, I would normally rate as good for beginners, but the instructions are so vague that I get the impression that they assume you know what you are doing. Also, I found the instructions for the back facing particularly poor and if followed, would not give a good result.

Once the dress was together and all I had left to do was put in the buttons, button holes and embellishments (this pattern just screams for embellishment!), my daughter wanted to try it on. So....


Even pinning it on her for the photos, it is too tight across the waistline.



The sleeves are huge! The fabric that I chose does not work for this pattern! It is too stiff by far to look nice! Maybe they would have laid down a bit if I had smocked them, but since I didn't... There is no way they would fit into the sleeves of a jacket. Also, it is noted that the dress does not fit! It is a tad too tight and shorter that my daughter would like. So, I would recommend going a size larger than the measurements suggest on this pattern. I do not plan to finish this dress for a while and if I do, I will give it to someone with a smaller child.

In conclusion, I do plan to try this pattern again, using a thinner fabric because I do think it is a fabulous design and the pattern does come in a large size range- 10-16 in one envelope. I will also, at a later date, post instructions for the back facing on how I think it should be done.

With that dress scrapped, we had to work fast! My older daughter had picked some fabulous charmeuse from fabric.com and it was on it's way for her dress. I grabbed my JoAnn flyer and found that Butterick patterns had gone on sale that day, so we searched online and my 10yo picked a pattern and told me what color she wanted. I had the pattern, the fabric serged, washed and all the notions lined up before she got home from school! Yeah me! (For the fabric, I chose a cute seersucker and lined it with broadcloth, they had the same fiber content, so I thought they would work well together.)

She chose- Butterick 4385



We chose view D, size 12. I must say right now that usually patterns require way more fabric than what is actually needed. This is not the case with this pattern, lay and cut carefully to have enough. Also, the fabric requirement for the contrast band is not on the back of the pattern and you must have this fabric, even if you decide not to make the band from contrasting fabric as the requirement on the back is not enough to cut this piece. The requirement is listed on the instruction sheet and is an additional 7/8 yd for size 12. I did not notice this in my rush to get through the store and it required an additional trip the next day.

I did the jacket first. It went together perfectly in just about an hour. I did the short sleeve version and I really like how cute it is. One complaint about the instructions is that they have you construct the fashion fabric and then sew the lining fabric front and back together, sew the lining to the fashion fabric around the edge and then SLIP STITCH the lining sleeve head in place. Well, bag that! Literally!

Here is what I did-

- Sew shoulders together on both fashion and lining.
- Sew the sleeves in flat.
- Sew fashion and lining fabric, right sides together around the outside edges.
- Sew the sleeves together at the hem.
- Turn right side out through the side seam.
- Sew fashion fabric side seams together, going as far into the lining as you can.
- Press everything and slip stitch the rest of the side seam lining together.

Why hand sew more than you need to? I know this is about as clear as mud. I am getting a camera to keep by my machine for better documenting. If you don't understand a step, let me know and I will try to make it clearer.






For the dress- It also went together really fast! My one big complaint with the pattern is that it is drafted for someone with a B cup. My 10yo does not have a B cup. I checked and the size 7 isn't much better. So, be prepared to take out some of the shaping.

I constructed the fashion fabric, basting the contrast band and pinned the shoulder straps on for the first fitting. At that point, it was really easy to make changes. In addition to taking out the B cup shaping, tightened the shoulder straps quite a bit (she doesn't like anything too low cut), this caused the contrast band to go up into her arm pits, but it is cut on the bias. So, it was easy to lower it under the arms and then lower the back by 1". (I used the contrast band as the top of the dress rather than folding it over as the pattern indicates. With the bias shaping, I can get away with it.) I also took in the side seams about 1/2" and the back about 3/8". It seems I took in a lot, but I am glad we chose the size 12 because around the tummy area was perfect and the length was perfect.

From there, it was easy to make the same changes to the lining before sewing it in. I also did add the little netting underskirt. It gives a lot of fullness to the skirt and if I make this pattern again, I think I would leave it off. It seems almost too full for the skirt.




After seeing this photo, I checked, and the fold in the bodice is because of how she is standing with one hip cocked out. She is such a ham!


(After seeing this photo, I think I may add another hook. The zipper should have been longer, but I bought the size the pattern called for and even lowered the back some. Can you imagine if I hadn't? I could have raised the zipper, but was in a hurry and didn't.)

On reading the instructions, I noticed that in the drawings, they ignore the fact that there is a contrast band and it looks like they are showing you to sew the lining to the top of the band as opposed to the bottom. This might confuse some beginners, but remember that the fashion fabric and lining are cut from the same pattern pieces and are therefore sewn in the same way. They also don't show the band in the drawings for the finish work. In skimming the instructions, I felt like they were taken from another pattern and just pasted there.

All that said, I do recommend this pattern with the caution to beginners to be aware of the mentioned errors. This pattern is really cute and goes together really fast and I also recommend it for those that are just getting into doing pattern alterations as some will be required for this to fit a child, but they are really easy to do. Just pin out the fullness on the bust line, before sewing in the lining and just make the same changes to the lining and you will do fine.


BTW- Proud momma note: My 10yo is part of the Honor's Choir for her school. After the concert the other night, a tribute to Elvis, the director handed out awards. Out of 50 students, my daughter was named Outstanding Performer of the Year!

Amy Butler's Rainy Days Coat

So, last fall when I saw the Love Collection by Amy Butler, I was in Love! I had to have those prints! Then I saw the pattern and fell in deeper Love! Making this coat has really had it's ups and downs, but I really love the end result. I hope you like it too!

First a note about the fabric: The laminated fabric is really a lot drapey-er than it looks and has a nice hand. The down side to this fabric is that it cannot be folded. If you are going to buy it locally, insist that it is rolled. If you are going to buy online, call or email. Insist that it be rolled. I bought it at the Sewing Expo and didn't know it couldn't be folded, so I let them fold it and bag it for me, and there it sat...




... until I decided to read through the pattern and found out that Amy has a file that can be downloaded from her site with more information about sewing and caring for the laminated fabric.

She says, "Do Not Fold Fabric" and then proceeds to give a few ways to get wrinkles out of the fabric should it get folded. None of them work, by the way. The wrinkles are permanent. When I contacted the Amy Butler Company about the fabric, asking if there was anything else I could do, they promptly replied that I should contact the retailer I purchased the fabric from and ask for a refund or exchange. They were also interested to know if the retailer would work with me.

Unfortunately for me, I had already lost the receipt and had no idea who I purchased it from. Good news though, the fabric naturally wrinkles a little bit during the sewing process and all of the wrinkles just kind of blend in and give the coat character.

And if anyone is close enough to see all of the wrinkles, they are close enough to see all of the sewing errors and are therefore entirely too close and should be told to back off. They have not been given permission to stand that close to your greatness.

Anyway, I found the instructions on the pattern to be well written and easy to follow. The entire construction of the coat is actually fairly simple. The only problem that I had was that the clips recommended to use instead of pins while sewing on the laminated fabric were sometimes not strong enough to deal with the weight of everything and I used pins in the seam allowances only.

I recommend making a muslin of the coat because I was pleasantly surprised that I did not have to make my usual full bust alteration. I just had to lengthen the bodice, front and back to bring it to my waist line and then I shortened the length below the waist and the sleeves.

The only changes I made was that I moved the shoulder notch on the sleeve cap more towards the back to ease some of the fullness out of the front and put it where I need it and then I added belt carriers.



I also was able to squeeze the pattern pieces together on the fabric enough that I have enough left over for a matching tote! Overall, I love this pattern and am planning on making another coat out of a lightweight wool.

Here are some photos of the finished project-








Pocket detail-



Beautiful covered buttons-

Sew Serendipity Review for PR

The book is divided into sections, starting with an overview of basic fitting, tools of the trade and sewing techniques. The book then is divided into 3 sections- skirts, tunics and dresses, and jackets. There is a basic pattern for each section and instructions on how to do several variations for each basic pattern. The author also includes her original sketch for each variation as well as a photo of the finished product and a little blurb on her thoughts for each sketch and how it evolved into the finished product.

I found the book to be great for beginning sewers, but the designs are pretty enough to appeal to a wide range of levels. The layout leads to a progression of skills until the reader is able to tackle the jacket section. The photos are very colorful and interesting. The designs and the authors variations lead the reader to start to think of other variations that could be done on basic patterns.

The pattern sizing included in the book goes from xxs (b-32", W- 24", h-34") to xxl (b-44", w-36", h-46").

I originally purchased this book for my daughter, who is learning to sew, but I thought the patterns and variations were so pretty that she will have to wait until I am done with it! I already purchased some fabric for one of the skirts and will post a review when that is done.

Original Sewing and Quilting Expo

Ok, so I admit it. I am addicted to expo's. I have never been to an expo I didn't love.

Normally, I hate crowds, so what is the draw with an expo? I think it is the fact that at expo's more than any where else, you are introduced to products that you never knew you couldn't live without until the sales person showed you how much better your life would be with their product! Do I always fall for the sales pitch? No! But, if I can see how the product really would make my life better or easier and the price is worth it.....

And, of course, the Sewing Expo was no different from other expo's that I have been to. In fact, I think it was better because it is all about SEWING!! I was able to take classes from some of the best teachers in the industry- Hope Yoder, Connie Spurlock, Carol Steinbrecher, and the ever wonderful Cynthia Guffey are the instructors that I hit this year. There were lots of classes that I wanted to take, but I waited too long to register. I guess that's what happens when you are in the middle of a cross country move.

The displays were also fabulous, and the shopping!! Let's just say that I didn't spend nearly as much as I could have, or as much as I wanted to. I added to my pattern stash, of course. My biggest splurge was to get an Amy Butler pattern with the fabric to go with it. (Pics and review to come.) I also found some great sewing notions from Martelli (love their products!) and another book on pattern alterations that I will be reviewing. All in all, not too big of a haul. :)

Of course, there is always my wish list and next years expo......

Sewing Room

So, I am almost done unpacking and setting up my new sewing room. I have run into a few problems, like the fact that there is no electrical outlets in my basement and since we are renting, we can't make changes. But, luckily, I have a wonderful husband who ran extension cords all over the basement for me. I just hope we don't blow a circuit once I get all my machines and lights hooked up.

It has been an interesting process to set up my new sewing area because despite the fact that we are renting while still looking to buy, so theoretically, I should only unpack what is absolutely necessary, I decided to unpack the entire sewing room. Why? Well, for me, all sewing is absolutely necessary. I mean, how do you decide what you might need? Do you say that since I am working on making jeans, I will only unpack what is necessary just for that task? What if tomorrow I decide that I want to make a quilt? Do I then go through everything again and just pull out the quilting supplies? NO! That would drive me crazy. So, it is all treated equally and unpacked.

The process of unpacking has been really interesting because of how things were packed. Like a box marked sewing room that had one piece of fabric and the rest of the huge box was canning supplies. Or the box marked sewing magazines, without a single magazine in the entire box. Also, now that all the "sewing room" boxes are unpacked, I have to figure out where my missing things might be packed. I am missing at least 2 olfa rulers that I can think of off the top of my head. Who knows what else might be hiding in other boxes. I should probably make myself a treasure map to mark where I have already searched. :)

New Start

So, since this is my first entry on this blog, let me just say a few words. I am starting this new blog to go with my new life in Virginia. We have only been here about a month and a half and it has been interesting getting used to the crazy pace of life here. For example, it seems that since we are so close to DC, everyone commutes to work and gets up crazy early to get there. Because of that, everyone goes to bed really early. I am just so not used to this and don't think that I ever will be. I am not a morning person!! Getting the kids up for school at 5:30 is just ridiculous!! Seriously!

Anyway, since the kids crazy schedules are all over the place, it is just not possible for me to work here. So that leaves more time for sewing!! I have decided to brush up my skills and push my talents. To that end, it is just more than convenient that the Original Sewing and Quilting Expo (http://www.sewingexpo.com/) is going to be in Chantilly next week and I just happen to have signed up to take some classes. Not nearly all the classes that I wanted to take, but hey, that's what I get for waiting so long to register.

Also, it was just announced at http://sewing.patternreview.com/ that PR is sponsering a workshop with Kenneth King!! What a way to learn the Moulage technique. I have been trying to perfect this technique for a while and have even gotten to chat with him online about it, but to take the class in person!! Of course I signed up. Now just need to get my plane ticket and hotel. But, we do not let such details slow us down!

Now back to unpacking and organizing the sewing room! I see another post in the future just about that. :)